I get asked this question more than almost anything else: “Is this a pothos or a philodendron?” And honestly, the confusion is completely understandable. These two plants look remarkably similar, especially when they’re young and growing in similar conditions.

The good news is that once you know what to look for, telling them apart becomes second nature. The bad news is that there are dozens of varieties within each genus, so the comparison gets complicated fast. Let’s start with the most common varieties you’ll actually see in Australian homes.

The Leaf Shape Test

The quickest way to distinguish them is leaf shape. Golden pothos (the most common pothos variety) has leaves that are slightly asymmetrical. If you look carefully, the leaves are a little wider on one side than the other. They have a thick, waxy feel.

Heart-leaf philodendron, the most commonly confused variety, has leaves that are much more symmetrical and heart-shaped. The base of the leaf where it meets the stem forms a pronounced heart shape with defined lobes. Pothos leaves have a less defined base—more rounded.

Hold a leaf up to the light. Pothos leaves are thicker and more textured, almost like they have a slight bumpy quality. Philodendron leaves tend to be thinner, smoother, and more uniformly flat.

The Stem Tells the Story

This is my go-to identification method. Look at the stem where new growth emerges.

Philodendrons have cataphylls—thin, papery sheaths that protect new leaves as they form. You’ll see these brownish husks along the stem. As new leaves unfold, the cataphyll dries up and either falls off or remains attached as a dry brown sheath.

Pothos don’t have cataphylls. New leaves simply emerge from the previous leaf node without any protective covering. If you see papery sheaths on the stem, it’s a philodendron.

Aerial Roots Are Different

Both plants produce aerial roots along their stems, but they look different. Pothos aerial roots are thick, stubby nubs—usually one per node, and they stay relatively compact until they contact a surface to climb.

Philodendron aerial roots tend to be thinner, more numerous, and can grow quite long even without a climbing surface. Some philodendron varieties produce clusters of fine roots at each node.

Growth Patterns

In hanging baskets or trailing down shelves, both plants behave similarly. But give them something to climb and the differences become more apparent.

Pothos are aggressive climbers that will attach firmly to moss poles, bark, or even walls. Their leaves increase dramatically in size when climbing—a pothos climbing a tree in tropical conditions can produce leaves over 30 centimeters long.

Philodendrons climb too, but heart-leaf philodendron is less aggressive about it. Climbing doesn’t produce the same dramatic size increase in leaf size that pothos shows.

Variegation Patterns

Both come in variegated forms, which adds to the confusion. Golden pothos has yellow-green variegation that appears marbled and irregular. Marble queen pothos has white and green variegation.

Philodendron ‘Brasil’ has yellow-green variegation that looks similar to golden pothos at first glance, but the variegation pattern is more defined—typically a central stripe rather than the random marble pattern of pothos.

If someone hands you a cutting and asks “what is this?” and it has variegation, look at whether the color variation follows the leaf veins in defined stripes (probably philodendron) or appears randomly marbled across the leaf surface (probably pothos).

New Leaf Color

When pothos produces new leaves, they tend to emerge a lighter shade of the mature leaf color. A golden pothos new leaf comes out lighter green with yellow tones.

Philodendron new leaves often emerge with a distinctly different color than mature leaves. Heart-leaf philodendron new leaves can appear almost bronze or copper-toned before maturing to deep green. This color change during maturation is more dramatic than in pothos.

Why It Actually Matters

Beyond satisfying your curiosity, identification matters for care. While both are forgiving houseplants, there are practical differences.

Philodendrons generally tolerate lower light better than pothos. If you’ve got a darker corner, a heart-leaf philodendron will cope better than a pothos. Pothos in low light tends to lose variegation and become leggy faster.

Water requirements are similar, but philodendrons are slightly more forgiving of overwatering. Pothos roots rot a bit faster in consistently wet soil.

Both are toxic to pets according to the ASPCA, so if you have cats or dogs that like to nibble plants, neither is a safe choice. The toxicity is similar—calcium oxalate crystals that irritate the mouth and digestive tract.

The Quick Cheat Sheet

Thick, waxy, slightly bumpy leaf? Pothos. Thin, smooth, heart-shaped leaf? Philodendron. Brown papery sheaths on stem? Philodendron. One thick aerial root per node? Pothos. Marbled, random variegation? Pothos. Striped, vein-following variegation? Philodendron.

Once you train your eye, you’ll start noticing the difference immediately. And then you’ll become that person at Bunnings who quietly corrects the labels—because they’re wrong about half the time.

— Nina